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"Fashion Periodicals"
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Door consumptie tot individu
De benadering is Foucauldiaans: hoe functioneren betekenissystemen in de concrete context van het dagelijkse leven. Dit boek laat zien hoe aan het eind van de negentiende eeuw vrouwen 'modern' consumptiegedrag werd aangeleerd en hoe vrouwen daardoor zichzelf gingen zien en manifesteren als autonome, creatieve en authentieke 'individuen'. Dit leerproces wordt in het boek concreet zichtbaar gemaakt aan de hand van een aantal modebladen die in Nederland verschenen in de periode 1880-1914. De analyse van de teksten laat zien dat de redactrices zich systematisch van zowel liberale (vrijheid en keuze) als romantische individu-opvattingen (originaliteit en harmonie) bedienden om hun modediscours vorm te geven. Ook de reformbeweging, die zich als tegenpool van de gevestigde mode presenteerde, maakte gebruik van de individualistische logica die aan het dominante modediscours ten grondslag lag.
eBook
Who's Buying Apparel
Who buys apparel and shoes for boys and girls, men and women, plus jewelry, watches, sewing materials, laundering and dry cleaning.
eBook
Crossing Sensory Borders: The Fabric of British Periodicals
[...]geographic borders exerted complex influences on production and consumption during the period spanning from the Napoleonic Wars to the 1851 Great Exhibition. Tools for Conversation and Consumption: The Repository of Arts One of the most striking aspects of the Repository of Arts is the \"Allegorical Wood-cut, with Patterns of British Manufacture\" that appeared regularly during its first monthly series (1809–15).4 The patterns framed within the allegorical woodcut included fabrics intended for furnishings as well as for male and female dress (figure 2).5 Two variations of the allegorical woodcut were used interchangeably, with each version's iconography positively linking nationalism, industry, art, and science in a way that reflected the journal's broad concerns, particularly during its early years when its target audience included both men and women.6 Despite the superior quality of Ackermann's hand-colored fashion plates, few of the images replicated the details and effects visible in the fabric specimen (figure 3). According to a letter from \"Mercator & Co.\" printed in the February 1810 issue in a recurring feature titled \"On Commerce,\" women living in the country and city should be kept informed of manufacturing matters, not only to make better purchases but also to learn to \"converse scientifically on these topics. Best, History of Fashion Journalism, 16. Besides periodicals, French technical manuals like Jean Persoz's Traité théorique et pratique (1846) sometimes contained fabrics.
Journal Article
The Processing of Thin Ideals in Fashion Magazines: A Source of Social Comparison or Fantasy?
The present study aimed to investigate the role of processing in women's responses to thin idealized images of beauty. A sample of 144 women viewed magazine advertisements containing either thin ideal or product images. Instructional set was manipulated with three levels: control, social comparison, and fantasy instructions. It was found that exposure to thin ideal images led to increased negative mood and body dissatisfaction, while instructional set had its effect on positive mood and body dissatisfaction. For thin ideal images, social comparison instructions led to greater negative mood and body dissatisfaction, while fantasy instructions led to improved positive mood. Importantly, regression analyses indicated that both comparison processing (negatively) and fantasy processing (positively) were associated with women's response to thin ideal images. It was concluded that the nature of the processing women engage in is crucial to their response to thin ideal images. [PUBLICATION ABSTRACT]
Journal Article